Shorebreak kooks

I remembered a long time ago it didn't matter about what I rode. Maybe this is pretty deep into the early grom years. Really deep. It especially didn't matter when the shorebreak out the front was thumping - whatever you pulled in on was going to get as mangled as yourself. Of course I didn't think I was a kook back then but now Gillian Welch is in my ear... 'time's a revelator'.

Of course, this ain't a revelation to a lot of folk...