That moment when the tension suddenly releases and you realise the board is gone…
Snapping a leash is never fun. Losing your board is also not in the basket labelled ‘fun’. On a big day when there’s a howling offshore and your leash snaps and you realise that your chances of catching your board as it ships off to the horizon… well. Bugger.
I pictured that somewhere out there there’s a gang of seals having the craic on this abandoned single fin – a floating hunk of junk serving as a temporary amusement.
“Yeah, check it out – I’m having the surfing…”
I like the idea that we’re constantly having the piss taken out of us by wave-riders who have had their surf skills hard-coded into the DNA for millenia.